FAQs

There are many alternatives to an inefficient open wood burner today. Some options may include wood and pellet stoves that use standard chimneys or direct vent chimneys, which are about the size of a clothes dryer vent pipe. There are gas fireplaces that use less gas than a water heater and are 100 percent efficient. With over 30 years in the chimney business, our experienced professionals are qualified to assist you in making an informed decision.

There are several reasons why you should get your chimney inspected:

Safety: To identify hazards like creosote buildup or blockages that could cause chimney fires or carbon monoxide leaks.
Performance: A properly functioning chimney ensures safe venting of smoke and gases.
Maintenance: Catch small issues before they become expensive repairs.
Compliance: Some insurance companies or local codes require inspections.
Peace of mind: Especially important before the cold season.

The NFPA recommends at least once a year, regardless of use. If used frequently—like with wood burning—it may need two inspections yearly. Always consult a certified chimney sweep for specifics.

Yes, hurricanes can cause structural damage and flue blockages. A post-storm inspection ensures your chimney is safe and functional before reuse.

The NFPA outlines 3 levels:

Level 1: For regularly used systems.
Level 2: Recommended for new purchases, changes in use, or after damage.
Level 3: Needed if a deeper issue is suspected that requires demolition.
Most buyers should get at least a Level 2 inspection.

A basic sweep (Level 1) involves cleaning and a visual check. A Level 2 includes internal video scans and inspection of attic, crawl spaces, and structure. Required after a fire, weather damage, or appliance change.

Level 2 inspections are recommended when:

• You’ve changed the appliance or fuel type
• Your chimney suffered damage (fire, storm, earthquake)
• You’re selling or buying a home
• It hasn’t been inspected in years or you’ve noticed issues like odor or downdraft

It includes a video scan, inspection of crawlspaces, attic, chimney connections, and clearances.

The NFPA recommends inspecting chimneys annually and sweeping as needed. Wood-burning systems typically need more frequent cleanings than gas. Always follow a professional sweep’s advice based on usage and conditions.

Fireplace odors are often due to creosote buildup, moisture, or negative air pressure pulling smells into your home. Waterproofing the chimney, installing a rain cap, and addressing home ventilation can help eliminate odors.

Actually, Level 2 refers to an inspection, not a cleaning. But it may include a recommended sweep if debris or creosote is found. The inspection uses cameras and checks multiple areas of your system.

When traditional brushes and vacuums can’t handle the creosote buildup, rotary/mechanical cleaning tools are used. It's especially needed for neglected systems, glazed creosote, or structural repairs.

Absolutely. Water can crack masonry, rust parts, and lead to mold, rot, and structural issues inside your home. Waterproofing and a proper chimney cap are crucial for prevention.

Yes. These fireplaces are usually metal and can corrode over time. Leaks may affect flue pipes, frames, and venting, leading to safety hazards. Inspections and maintenance are key.

New Orleans’ humidity and rain can deteriorate brick and mortar, promote mold, and create flue blockages. Regular inspections, waterproofing, and a chimney cap are essential for protecting your chimney here.

Do not try to remove them yourself. Call a wildlife removal pro. After removal, have your chimney inspected for damage or debris. Then install a chimney cap or screen to prevent future intrusions.

Chimney swifts are protected birds. It's illegal to remove them. Wait until they migrate (fall/winter), then clean the chimney and install a chimney cap with mesh to keep them out next season.

Technically yes, but it’s risky. Always hire a certified chimney professional with CSIA or similar credentials to ensure safety, compliance, and lasting quality.

If your model is old or discontinued, parts may be limited. Some manufacturers only sell to dealers. A fireplace pro can help you find or retrofit parts.

Look for leftover parts, a similar model, or upgrade to a newer unit. Always work with a licensed tech for replacements and safe installations.

Replace or repair it ASAP. It protects your chimney from water, debris, and critters. A professional can recommend the right replacement for your system.

Usually not. Most factory chimneys use proprietary parts. Using off-brand components can void warranties or be dangerous. Stick with OEM parts and pro installs.

15–30 years with good maintenance. Watch for rust, blockages, or cracks. If it’s over 20 years old, get it inspected for safety and efficiency.

Decades or even centuries if maintained. But mortar and brick can degrade. Annual inspections and waterproofing are key for long-term safety.

Not without inspection. Many are unsafe due to age or missing parts. Have it professionally assessed before use. Often better preserved as decor.

Call a pro immediately to inspect for cracks, gas leaks, or structural issues. Consider adding a lightning protection system for the future.

Look for cracks, missing bricks, scorch marks, or a burnt smell. If you heard a loud pop or bang, it’s worth getting checked by a pro.

No. Your fireplace must be designed or properly retrofitted for gas logs. A certified tech can tell you what’s compatible and safe.

Annually. A professional will check connections, clean burners, inspect for leaks, and ensure safe operation.

Vented logs use a chimney and give realistic flames but lose heat. Vent-free logs are efficient but release gases indoors. Local codes and room size matter—ask a pro.

At least once a year — more often for heavy use. Clogged vents can cause fires and reduce efficiency. Always use a professional.

Lint buildup is the #1 cause. It restricts airflow and causes overheating. There are ~2,900 dryer fires a year in the U.S. Clean regularly to stay safe.

Use rigid or semi-rigid metal (aluminum or galvanized steel). Avoid plastic or foil flex ducts—they trap lint and increase fire risk.

Yes — IRC/IMC codes apply. Vents should be 4” in diameter, as short as possible, and terminate outdoors with a backdraft damper. No screws inside the duct. Follow your local code too.

It’s a surface-cleaning method that uses water + abrasive media to strip paint, rust, graffiti, and more from metal, concrete, and wood — fast and eco-friendly.

Less dust, less mess, safer for surfaces and the environment. It’s also faster and more precise for delicate or detailed work.

Yes! It’s highly effective on concrete, brick, and metal. The right abrasive can strip graffiti without harming the underlying surface.